Spring/Summer 2012 Collection hits the mark at Pietro Filipi
Národní 31, the flagship store for Pietro Filipi, is a quiet oasis on one of the most bustling corners in the city of Prague. Gathering earlier this month- a collection of journalist, bloggers, and friends were there to view what was in store for Spring/Summer 2012 by the likes of the Pietro Filipi design team and famed actress Aňa Geislerová.
Men’s and Women’s are located on the ground floor and include more weekend and casual collection where the upstairs of the store are more work wear, suits, evening wear, and bridal (though to be honest, I certainly think there are better bridal salons or designers in the Czech Republic so until the cut has a bit of a remake I suggest skipping it.)
Let’s start with the Men’s collection. The new Flash Collection (part prepster, part Martha’s Vineyard) evokes city living with escapes into the country or the sea-side. Polo’s are in such striking colors as Cobalt, Sunflower, Flamingo pink, Poeny, and Kelly green. Swimming trunks in a variety of colors are also available but, should you be leg shy these are probably not the best for you- they hit a little high on the thigh.
Looking at the racks around the Flash collection three main themes dominated the space: refined sailor, the sporty guy, and the uptown-hipster (part refined elegance, part scrub, equal parts cool). Throughout the three main trends stripes played heavily- traditional sailor in navy blue and white, more sporty polo’s in poeny and gray combinations, and in the uptown category button-downed dress shirts or striped cotton/linen blended scarves. Light-weight sweaters made in a cotton/silk/wool blend are in fact, perfect for the “Czech Summer” which should allow you to still look good on those cool summer nights. Jackets and Blazers were either in a more conservative Jersey Cotton or in a sporty neoprene or another similar wind-breaker style material. Regardless of the fabric used all jackets/blazers were either of the 1-2 button varieties or were baseball or anorak style- having a cut that a man can be comfortable in, regardless of the fabric is half the battle of selling to this unique group of individuals- also known as the male.
Located at the front of the store you will find the women’s collection- bursts of peach, sand, and tan colored, raw silk ¾ sleeved v-neck jackets and A-line dresses are perfect for a Garden party or lunching with friends. Maxi dresses in floral patterns were very similar to those in the archives of the great fashion houses found around the world. The trick has always been to create a floral pattern that is updated and classic- if you fail, it can easily look contrived or cheap. Fear not Pietro Filipi lovers, the brand certainly succeed in bringing their floral lilies up-to-date taking the traditional school marm maxi dress into a new era. High-waisted cotton skirts with Calfskin leather jackets were by far some of my favorites. They were versatile not only for the many temperatures of summer, but also for the sheer volume in which one can wear the same jacket or skirt in different combinations.
Like the men’s collection the designers of Pietro Filipi decided that a resort theme in the women’s section should continue into summer. Dark denim, lots of neutrals in either tan or sand, stuck to the theme of “sailing away” to French ports of call. Nautical themes produced bold-striped shirts, trench coats, and anoraks which were all accompanied by discreet details- roping, brass rivets.
Working your way back to the front of he store updated versions of our more casual counterparts focused on bright colors like Strawberry and Lipstick Red in either ¾ sleeved jackets, blouses,or shirts. I found the pops of black and white relieving, as there is only so much bright that I can look at before starting to feel ill. A butterfly pattern was done in both warm and cool colors which was cute but a little too busy for me.
Let me preface by saying that I enjoyed the multifaceted line of Aňa Gislerová’s collection- unfortunately, there were too many trends all in concurrence with one another for me to draw a sound conclusion about where the Aňa from Pietro with love line figured was the most important trend for Spring/Summer 2012. There was a cute playsuit in black, a flamenco style dress in black and white with frills galore, futuristic details like peplum and large pockets at the natural waist in colors like teal, cobalt, chartreuse and strawberry started to get confusing when you added in the floral, pastel trend which consisted of items like an all white, cherry blossom jacket and a multi-tiered light colored floral dress which was beautiful but didn’t seem to fit.
I had asked whether or not the collection would debut as a whole or whether it would roll out as vignette’s instead, giving the consumer a chance to buy more of the collection over a staggered period- the answer was no- which I personally think is a mistake. Don’t get me wrong I really enjoyed the collection and it seems that Aňa Geislerová never lets the consumers of Pietro Filipi down- she’s always on trend and allows the consumer to experience another side of fashion that may not be readily available to them, but the current collection was more of a hodgepodge leaving me to wonder if I had only 3,000CZK which item would I buy?
Spring/Summer 2012 was a step in the right direction for the Czech Republic brand. While the womens collection of both Pietro Filipi and Aňa Geislerová was original and versatile, the true winner in my book was the mens wear. They crossed borders and gave a limited range with finely tuned details and a direction that was easy to understand. While there were some missteps, the Spring/Summer 2012 Pietro Filipi line will be hard to surpass for the coming collections of Autumn/Winter 2012.