The second day of Prague Fashion Weekend had some winners, losers, and a good amount of seasonal confusion
Day Two of Prague Fashion Weekend brought out the star chasers and those looking for any attention that they could get. There was a man with a plastic bull ring, that was half plate, half sea shell walking around and posing- hoping someone would take a photo of him. There were the women that crowded around the VIP area hoping for a little taste of the limelight, and of course those like myself and other journalists who had been there since the beginning who were just waiting for the next show to start so that we could get our things and go home- sigh.
A segway riding apparition with a metal gazelle headpiece is how the A/W 2012 collection of Ivana Kaňovská opened. Her designs, which are always outlandish, were still a bit of a shock to see walking down the runway as “bush” sounds blared through the sound system. The pieces transitioned into alien-looking masks, combined with stylized Matrix or Fifth Element themes. There was a three-point buck headpiece that I am sure many a hunter would be happy to have hanging in their living rooms, as well as pieces made of metal and optical wires adding the impression of a horse’s mane.
While the designs were thought provoking, it was hard to imagine these pieces anywhere other than a runway or a sci-fi movie in Hollywood. It would be nice to see the young designer put together a ready-to-wear collection that was more saleable and less about an art exhibition- after all- we are in a business to sell things.
Without question or hesitation La Formela had the best collection of the day, and thus far, the fashion weekend. The S/S 2013 color palette was filled with bubble gum pink, lime green, cream, and daisy yellow with accents of midnight blue; was only but the start of a bare canvas that was later turned into printed magic. Japanese inspired prints were enhanced with the odd Koi fish, Lady bugs, and a trippy Japanese garden which were strategicaly placed on sleeves, oversized trench coats, or at the bottom hems of dresses or cigarette pants.
The use of silks, cottons, satins, and chiffons were used throughout the collection blending many fabrics together to create one easily understandable look. High heels in bright colors, as well as printed gloves- either opera length or driving length- created a ladies-that-lunch look that is far superior to anything else currently on the Czech market.
Eco-friendly materials, recycled pieces born again- all of which were produced through crowdfunding -all while saving mother earth from the destruction of greedy fashionistas.
Of course, saving mother earth from the likes of mass fashion is certainly a noble idea and I am all for taking old and making it new once more, but the collection was confusing from the beginning. Was it A/W12, S/S13; it certainly felt more S/S13 than anything else.
There were some interesting pieces- like a sleeveless trench-coat with a flamingo pink cord belted at the natural waist and a denim jumpsuit with lilac painted details. The collection was very Banana Boat meets Havana Joe with a 1940’s twist (I can imagine sitting at a café in Cuba wearing the vast majority of these pieces). Straw hats, brightly colored socks mixed with loafer-styled heels were paired with polka -dotted dresses which were fun, but also a little too main stream.
On the whole collection was saleable, which is all that matters in the end anyway. While the excitement was a bit lackluster you can always expect well tuned garments that have been perfectly styled, cut, and sewn. There is also the added benefit of saving mother earth from fast fashion.
I should have known when the Redken commercial popped on screen that I was in for less of a treat that what I had anticipated. The catwalk is the last bastion of the commercial free zone- I wasn’t at the movie theater after all.
I had hoped to see something unique and new from Mr. Polanka’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection- the hype was certainly there to warrant such an interest, though in the end, the collection was just fair. From the beginning everything was a bit of the same- color’s were in jewel tones- with satins, silks, and jersey being the bulk of the collection’s fabrics
As the show opened and the first models walked out, I was instantly confused- where am I? Did Ivana Kaňovská collaborate with Jakub Polanka? The first “jacket” was a grey rubber monstrosity that was more stingray than something of fashionable interest. There were jersey dresses, with Grecian silhouettes, usually in somber grey with splashes of lilac placed at the neck or at the bottom hem. There was a satin maroon dress that looked a little too similar to other designer’s past collections- one I currently own in my closet by Donna Karan.
Sadly, the collection (color palette of jewel tones included) I was expecting nowhere matched the hype that was created pre-show. I am sure Jakub Polanka, as well as many of his best clients would argue with my review- but in the end it didn’t live up to the hype, the tailoring, and what I have come to expect from the Czech darling.