Day three Prague Fashion Weekend- A Georgian talent, a known staple, an ona.idnes.cz reader, and a celebration of the female form, were just some of the highlights on Saturday.
“The collection was full of emotions, I love everything that is feminine and I always try to create feminine models,” explains the Georgian designer Avtandil Tskvitinidze who released his Spring/Summer 2013 collection in Prague.
There were four basic, wearable colors: red, grey, black, and blue which were either used as separate statement pieces and ideas, or were mixed together to create an entirely new look. Dresses and skirts kept with the idea of femininity trumping oversized “everything” which had so often been seen in other Resort and Spring 2013 collections.
An emphasis on the natural waist with just a hint of peplums or small oblong cut out at the sides and hips added a bit of feminine mystique creating a classic and elegant look. Besides the feminine silhouette inspiration was also derived from the cameo. Worn in the necklaces throughout the show it was, “used to show the character of a very feminine and very strong woman,” a strong woman that doesn’t need to hide behind Victorian-esque layers or through oversized jackets and long inseam trousers; she emerges in fitted dresses that proclaim loudly that she is indeed a woman!
The remarkable designs were not only effective in creating a lust (I had thought about jumping onto the runway and tearing the Avtandil dresses off of the models), but the cuts, so simple and timeless, would be easily translated for those who do not have our model-friend’s bodies.
Better still, Mr. Tskvitinidze was so enamored with our dear city, and felt such inspiration from the people that he is “very sure that this inspiration will somehow be enshrined in my next collection.”
E:be by Eva Brzakova
Imagine, if you will, that you live in the 1950’s and are trying to forecast what clothing will be like in say, the year 2100- your collection would probably look eerily similar to the A/W 2012 collection of the brand e:be. Silhouettes were more casual in fit for both men and women allowing the fabric to convey a brilliant idea- high-end clothing doesn’t need to be constructed from oddly shaped cuts and skin tight silhouettes.
Most of the pieces included some type of satin, cashmere/wool blended coats, or fabric in an iridescent shimmer that were a bit lighter in color- charcoal and heather grey, lilac, cream, with pops of turquoise. The cuts were easy to mix and match- both with other pieces in the collection and pieces one would normally have in their own home. There were beautifully cut winter gear like a military coup d’etat parka in lavender and lilac- complete with satin on the sides of the coat. The collection, which seemed to be a bit androgynous at times, was true to E:be’s form and function.
The brightest A/W 2012 collection, titled Fluidum, belonged to that of Petra Balvinova, the lead designer of Tiqe. There were classic white pointelle shirts- almost always seen in the summer and spring months- daisy lace in a very bright white, as well as a chartreuse-colored lace skirt that seemed incredibly out of place- matched with a white long sleeved cotton shirt and a fur vest. My interested was aroused as to why such a bright collection was being shown for A/W when it would have been a perfect fit for S/S 2013- so we sauntered backstage to ask the designer first hand. Petra, who was quite nice, explained that it was necessary for her to have these bright colors and typical spring fabrics in her collections as every season her discerning customer ultimately demanded them
The colors, as bold as they were, shouldn’t take away from the beauty of the collection, which consisted of high-waist skirts, sheer dresses in silk or lace, as well as tweed- all playing a crucial role in bringing the whole picture of beauty and the upper echelons of society together.
Feminine forms continued with the A/W 2012 collection of our favorite Czech-Parisian Katerina Geislerova. Dresses in either tartan, houndstooth or wool crepe were fixed with faux leather corsettes which created a sort-of optical illusion. The theme carried through out the runway show, being repeated in various forms- the top of a corsette here, the bottom of a corsette there- sexy and feminine- a bit of a good girl turned naughty woman.
Like so many other a/w collections emphasis was once again placed on the natural waist with attention being drawn through a skinny belt in a bright, bold colors. The colors, stayed more somber and with minimal pop.
As the show progressed we saw that drapping, especially with jersey and silk fabrics, became particularly important for the Geislerova woman. The pieces, most of which were strapless, allowed ample movement and feminine sex appeal to drip from the clothes.
To be perfectly honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the A/W 2012 Tatiana collection. I have heard people gush over previous collections; her tailoring, her eye for simple details, her love for black (three cheers for her), but I am always wary of people who sing praise so readily. Her collection was all of the three listed above and beyond what I expected; so now it shall be my turn to sing her name on the hill top.
For those who have been in this industry long enough you will now that extravagant is quite easy to sew, glue, nail together, but it is the simplest cuts that are the most difficult. Why? Because any discrepancies are easily seen within minutes of a garment walking down the runway or you (the journalist, buyer, or consumer) examining it in a showroom or selling floor.
The collection was fluid and succinct- black was the color de jour of her collection with red working as the only accent color. There were Black drop-waisted jackets with leather belts, long pea-coats with leather details at the sides and front of the garments, oversized coats that will be a great trend of both fall and moving into spring 2013. Accessories were not left out, with kid-leather opera and driving length gloves available with skirts with very minute peplums to add an extra feminine shape to the waist.
Besides the clothing, one of the highlights of the show was when Iveta, a 44 year old reader of Ona.idnes.cz, strutted the catwalk in one of Tatiana’s finely structured dresses to the great applause of the packed house- this woman certainly knew how to work a runway!