Libena Rochova debuts new limited edition collection with Summer joi de vivre
After a long winter of blacks, greys, and boring beige it was nice to see that color was back in full form at the Libena Rochova show on April 23. Using summer color combinations of canary yellow, new-leaf green, dusty rose, sea-foam green, and cobalt blue, the designer began a transformation away from her normal white and black; to a wearable summer line that was classic but with a twist.
This twist, came in many different forms. Some of them fantastic, some not so much; but the idea was there and for once Ms. Rochova began to show us that she can take risks in the form of silhouettes and fabrics that are not always the most forgiving.
The first twist in her collection was the blue-collar staple of the mechanic’s suit. Ms. Rochova turned a rather boring work staple into something that was sexy and fun, by adding a wider-leg trouser and an open slit in the front where a leather bandeau was discreetly placed in a tonal color to match the all linen suit. To mix it up, this suit was reversed to allow not a plunging neckline,but a vast split down the back that had a sex appeal not often seen on the streets of Prague.
As the collection moved forward, so did a 60’s color-block vibe in muted, sherbert leathers with just a hint of mid-drift for those daring enough to show it. Chunkier zippers were added to the side of the tanks and skirts to further encapsulate the 60’s feeling in the collection. When shift dresses weren’t the norm, a capri pant in white was the choice Rochova went after.
Two pieces that looked hopeful, but soon fell to the side, were two canary colored dresses in silk organza and chiffon that either offered too much movement or not enough. While the idea was certainly one that was interesting, the shape of the garment wasn’t flattering to the model, let alone a woman of non-model proportions.
The limited edition summer collection was one that was interesting and fresh. It was nice to see that Libena Rochova took a few steps away from her traditional comfort zone silhouettes and attempted to make something fresh and new- either with new materials or forms. In reality, all we need now is for the weather to actually change