Let’s not call them Autumn/Winter or Fall/Winter collections. What was shown throughout the entire weekend were capsule collections- vignettes of smaller stories to a larger collection. The problem was, the larger collections never stepped foot onto the catwalk, never made an appearance, so the viewer was left wondering at the end of each show, “What the * was that?”
Since splitting with business partner Katarina Kral we’ve seen the label go from once wearable, girl-about-town-chic to something a bit more roomy.
The Autumn/Winter collection by Pavel Brejcha focused on oversized silhouettes, elongated shoulders and high neck lines. As was so often the case with the majority of collections there was no story, no theme, only a capsule collection of 7 pieces. The collection looked sterile, mixing what I believe to be wool and a padded cotton (I was given no press release and no access to backstage so it is speculation), as well as a boring, tunic shirt dress that lacked imagination.
Pavel is a very talented designer so it was incredibly disappointing to see that his true talents were not stretched and he stopped with what was easy. The one idea that I did enjoy and thought could be reworked into a larger story was that of the padded cotton- interesting, different and most importantly could work for most consumers. It was the one glimmer of hope in an otherwise unimpressive collection.
Petra is a master of always being in between seasons; my guess is commitment issues. Alas we are stuck with pre’s and resorts that never seem quite right and this AW15 was no exception.
Channelling what I can only imagine was an ode to the 1950’s housewife the TIQE collection started strong with a mustard Jackie-O-esque coat and an inspired Maison Michel’s iconic bunny ears headpiece. Wool/felt, lace, and pleather made up the 7 piece capsule collection in colours that were mostly pop and less sales. As the 1950’s sock-hop continued it became clear that she was trying to be too much to too many, this was ultimately evident with the space-age twinkle jacket that gave the impression of a customer and designer who both seemed stuck on which direction to go next.
For AW15 we were asked to leave the big city jungle and travel into the fall forests where we were to find solace and peace in honeycombs, glint wood, and graphical motifs. I for one was excited to leave the urban jungle of minimalism that the Czech design scene has become so accustomed to and whilst I am not a nature lover, a good trip into the wilderness is one I never miss.
But then the first designs came out and I started thinking, ‘what forest am I in?’ This looks more like Tory Burch’s Fifth Avenue or Martina Spetlova’s East London forests, maybe even a 1970’s Studio 54 forest. There were silks and wools and what appeared to be leather though I can’t be sure. There was a lack of movement in the clothing and when it did move it rode; creeping up to another possible forest. I did like the ideas behind the collection and enjoyed a more geometric approach which made the very feminine line of Kubickova a bit more masculine – a trend I hope she continues to embrace.