MERCEDES BENZ PRAGUE FASHION WEEK Fall/Winter 2016 ODIVI

Favourites from MBPFW according to our intern

Ciara O’Connor, Prague Fashion Scene’s latest and greatest intern, picks her favourite shows and the ones she could have easily done without at this year’s Autumn/Winter 2016 Mercedes Benz Prague Fashion Weekend

 

Feeling Good At the Top

 

ODIVI
A completely modern, minimalist and clean show from ODIVI was another highlight. Layers on layers on layers, baggy sweaters over baggy pants, baggy sweaters over beautiful sheer skirts, baggy sweaters over EVERYTHING. The whole collection worked together, and the steampunk glasses added another element to the whole show. Definitely feeling the street vibes from this collection with fur, marbled prints and some shearling added in for good measure, all in tones of black, white and grey with a pop of colour in the last two to three looks. Amazing.

Tiqe by Petra Balvinova
TIQE was the second show on the first day of fashion week and definitely was not easily forgotten, for me at least. Nearly every look was perfect, particularly the pinafore, button down and knee high socks. There were three distinct styles from the show and I’m not sure how well they meshed together – it went from cute and vintage-y, to very modern and almost futuristic, to two beautiful full length gowns. Despite this, TIQE makes it to my top three for sheer beauty in every look.

Daniela Peskova and Filip Jakab
As the winners of the Van Graaf Junior Talent Selection I think this collection deserves a top three spot. The amount of silk and raw edges in this collection made me weak at the knees, plus the slippers?! So beautiful. The patterns and material are reminiscent of Khussa shoes worn in the countries of South Asia. Lots of texture mixing, with deep colours mixed into a more neutral palette and again, a lot of layering.

It’s lonely at the Bottom

Jan Cerny
Out of this whole 10 look menswear collection there were maximum 3 pieces which were nice, let alone wearable. Of course, I understand he was part of the Young Designers Selection and being out there and a little wacky gets you noticed in the beginning, but other than one sweater and one shirt, nothing which screamed amazing to me. Also, the glove? I know fashion is subjective but I just didn’t get it.

 Denisa Nova
I’ll be honest – again, the raw edged silk pieces in this collection made me swoon. And I guess I kind of get it, pairing these beautiful, light and silky pieces with bulky jeans; it makes for a great idea. In theory. In reality, the jeans made these lithe models look twice their size and were so ill-fitting and just overall unflattering. Some of the pairings added pounds onto the models and just did nothing for the feminine figure. The silk saved it, but the jeans just killed it beyond saving.

Zuzana Kubickova
Definitely the best of a bad bunch, it’s not that it was a bad collection as such – more that it was a little bit meh. Nothing in this collection really excited me – not to say that the materials, textures and designs didn’t look really great, there was just no spark. And some of the colour combinations just did absolutely nothing for me.

Monika Drapalova SS16 / Photo Credit: MBPFW

Top two designers from Sunday’s MBPFW : In pictures

Monika Drapalova

Lukas Lindner

LaFormela SS16 / Photo Credit: MBPFW

Day Two: Jakub Polanka and LaFormela MBPFW

These shows both had elements that were enjoyable, but neither gave me the feeling I had to shout about their collections from the roof tops of Prague. So, I will let you dear readers, make the judgement call for yourselves and will allow you to be the critic – ENJOY

Jakub Polanka

LaFormela

Hana Frisonsova SS16 / Photo Credit: MBPFW

Day Two: Lukas Machacek and Hana Frisonsova MBPFW

I continue my laziness (plus I didn’t see the show and don’t feel it’s fair to write about it when you aren’t there nor are live streaming) and will only show pictures.

Lukas Machacek

Hana Frisonsova

Katerina Geislerova SS16

Day One: Zuzana Kubickova and Katerina Geislerova in pictures MBPFW

Zuzana Kubickova

Katerina Geislerova

Pavel Brejcha SS16 Collection

Photo Credit: MBPFW

Day One : Miro Sabo and Pavel Brejcha in Pictures

MIRO SABO

Pavel Brejcha

Petra Balvinova

Capsule Collections: Mercedes Benz Prague Fashion Weekend Day 1

Let’s not call them Autumn/Winter or Fall/Winter collections. What was shown throughout the entire weekend were capsule collections- vignettes of smaller stories to a larger collection. The problem was, the larger collections never stepped foot onto the catwalk, never made an appearance, so the viewer was left wondering at the end of each show, “What the * was that?”

Pavel Brejcha

Since splitting with business partner Katarina Kral we’ve seen the label go from once wearable, girl-about-town-chic to something a bit more roomy.

The Autumn/Winter collection by Pavel Brejcha focused on oversized silhouettes, elongated shoulders and high neck lines. As was so often the case with the majority of collections there was no story, no theme, only a capsule collection of 7 pieces. The collection looked sterile, mixing what I believe to be wool and a padded cotton (I was given no press release and no access to backstage so it is speculation), as well as a boring, tunic shirt dress that lacked imagination.

Pavel is a very talented designer so it was incredibly disappointing to see that his true talents were not stretched and he stopped with what was easy. The one idea that I did enjoy and thought could be reworked into a larger story was that of the padded cotton- interesting, different and most importantly could work for most consumers. It was the one glimmer of hope in an otherwise unimpressive collection.

TIQE- Petra Balvinova

Petra is a master of always being in between seasons; my guess is commitment issues. Alas we are stuck with pre’s and resorts that never seem quite right and this AW15 was no exception.

Channelling what I can only imagine was an ode to the 1950’s housewife the TIQE collection started strong with a mustard Jackie-O-esque coat and an inspired Maison Michel’s iconic bunny ears headpiece. Wool/felt, lace, and pleather made up the 7 piece capsule collection in colours that were mostly pop and less sales. As the 1950’s sock-hop continued it became clear that she was trying to be too much to too many, this was ultimately evident with the space-age twinkle jacket that gave the impression of a customer and designer who both seemed stuck on which direction to go next.

Zuzana Kubickova

For AW15 we were asked to leave the big city jungle and travel into the fall forests where we were to find solace and peace in honeycombs, glint wood, and graphical motifs. I for one was excited to leave the urban jungle of minimalism that the Czech design scene has become so accustomed to and whilst I am not a nature lover, a good trip into the wilderness is one I never miss.

But then the first designs came out and I started thinking, ‘what forest am I in?’ This looks more like Tory Burch’s Fifth Avenue or Martina Spetlova’s East London forests, maybe even a 1970’s Studio 54 forest.  There were silks and wools and what appeared to be leather though I can’t be sure. There was a lack of movement in the clothing and when it did move it rode; creeping up to another possible forest.  I did like the ideas behind the collection and enjoyed a more geometric approach which made the very feminine line of Kubickova a bit more masculine – a trend I hope she continues to embrace.